I just went to the 32nd Annual Camera Swap and Show where I saw lots of interesting and fun cameras and photographic items on display and for sale.

I came away with 3 box cameras, a vintage light meter and a few filters.

The box cameras are (left to right):
Ansco Shur Shot Jr. - 120 film camera
Ansco Shur Shot - 120 film camera
Ansco Dollar camera - 127 film camera

I didn't intend to get so many cameras, but the prices were more than reasonable. ($1 for the Shur Shots and $7 for the Dollar camera)

The light meter is non-working, but I got it because I enjoy it's vintage look.

• Saturday, April 14, 2012
• 10 am to 4 pm
• Kent Commons Recreation Center
• 525 Fourth Ave N.
• Kent, Washington

The Pacific Northwest’s 32 Annual Camera Sale, Swap and Show is coming to Kent, WA in April. This is the largest one day Camera Sale, Swap and Show in the Western United States.

One hundred and four 6 foot tables of digital, antique, usable and collectable photographica, including early images, will be offered by collectors from Washington, California, Oregon, Nevada, Idaho, Montana, Alaska and British Columbia. There will be up to twenty display tables, exhibiting some of the finest historical photographic items selected from the collections of Puget Sound Photographic Collectors Society members.

The 32nd annual sale/show is sponsored by the Puget Sound Photographic Collectors Society. The sale is a virtual cornucopia of prizes and surprises for anyone interested in photography or collecting photographica. Thousands of photographic items will be offered for sale or trade. 

Puget Sound Photographic Collectors Society, Inc., organized in 1979, is a non-profit organization of camera enthusiasts dedicated to collecting and preserving the photographica of our past.

The public is encouraged to bring any photographic items they would like appraised or trade or sell.

The doors will open to the general public at 10:00 am Saturday April 14, 2012 admission is $5.00. For the dedicated collector, an 8:30 am early admittance can be purchased for $20.00.

Plenty of FREE parking is available.

Additional information available on their website:  www.PSPCS.org

Theme:
We encourage work which reflects contemporary photography's roles in perceiving history and collective memory about the music.

Categories:
- Live: photographs of bands/artists performing
- Portrait: a posed photograph
- Reportage: un-staged photographs that tell a story
- Festivals: photographs taken at live music events

We encourage photographers working in all Lo-Fi mediums of photography from Holga, Lomo, pin-hole, Lens babies lenses, cell-phone cameras, home-made cameras and vintage cameras to submit.

Eligibility
U.S., International, Professional and Amateur Photographers - working in black and white or color, using traditional or digital methods or elements of both processes.

Submission guidelines:

File Naming:
Individual files should be titled with the Photographer's first initial, followed by last name, a sequential image number, followed by title.

example: jsmith_01_title.jpg

Format Guidelines
- JPEG format saved at level 10 compression
- Images must be no greater than 1600 pixels on the longest dimension
- Images must be saved at 72dpi
- Maximum file size: 1MB
- Color Profile: Adobe SRGB

Bio (Optional)
You may include a brief bio, up to 200 words.

Entry Fee:
- $35.00 for up to ten (10) images.
- Fee is payable via Paypal.
- Your submission process is complete upon receipt of entry fee.
- Entry fee is non-refundable.
- International currency must be in US dollars.

Accepted Works: Print & Framing Guidelines
- Final Print must be matted and framed
- Frame must be 16″x 20″with plexiglass cover (no glass)
- Must arrive ready to hang with wire
- Unsold works will be returned in same packaging it arrived in
- Mailed in works should include prepaid return shipping fee

Sales & Commissions
100% of sales go to the artist

Dates
Entry Deadline:
February 24th, 2012

Acceptance Notifications
February 27th, 2012

Delivery Deadline:
March 13th, 2012

Exhibition Dates:
March 15th - 25th, 2012, During SxSW

Opening Reception:
March 15th, 2012, 7pm - 9pm 

Apply Online at http://jujufotofactory.com/call-for-submissions

About Juju Foto Factory
Juju is a creative space focused on the music, movie, and photography industries. Our mission is to provide independent photographers, both local and international, with an opportunity to exhibit art of our time. Austin, Texas is the Live Music Capital of the World, host to international film festivals, and home to an eclectic cultural mix and independent art scene.

For more info or questions on the submission process, please contact submissions@jujufotofactory.com

JUJU FOTO FACTORY
2235 EAST 6th Street, UNIT 101
AUSTIN, TX 78702

Please go to my store at cafepress.com and check them out.

http://bit.ly/kCafe

I made a video showing how to install batteries in a Holga 120CFN or 120FN.

The video is posted on youtube.

http://bit.ly/kHolgaBatteries

I see lot's of Polaroid iZone cameras at the thrift stores, but this is the first time I've run across this particular model. I've never heard of it before either. It's called the iZone Digital Combo camera. It's an iZone camera with a built-in digital camera added to the top. According to the Land List, it was produced in 2000-2001 and originally cost $99.95.

It sports a .3Mp digital camera with 1Mb of memory, 18 digital photos at 680x480p, an RS-232 serial PC connection, an optical viewfinder with no display LCD.

The iZone section of the camera is a standard iZone camera. The analog and digital cameras are separate from each other, but appear to share the same power source, since there is a switch to transfer the 4-AAA power source from one camera to the other.

Unlike most of my thrift store purchases, I don't consider this a usable camera, as iZone film is no longer available and the digital camera requires an outdated PC connection and PC software to download the photos.

Cost: $5.99

I went to the 32nd Annual Camera and Photographica Swap in Kent today. There were lots of fun and interesting items on display and sale there. I came away with 3 box cameras, and old light meter and some filters.

The box cameras are:
Ansco Dollar Camera - 127 film
Ansco Shur Shot - 120 film
Ansco Shur Shot Jr. - 120 film

I didn't intend to purchase so many box cameras, but the prices were more than reasonable ($7 for the Dollar camera, and a $1 each for the other 2 cameras). All appear to be good working order.

The old Weston light meter doesn't work, but I got it more for it's cool looks than for something I intended to use.

I've got a diana f+ and i took pictures with the lomography film 400 ISO 120mm and lomography film 100 ISO 120mm. Some of the pictures I took was cropped. I thought my results will be exactly like the one my eyes saw through the hole when you take a picture of something. But it turned out to be in a different angle. For example, I took a picture of a glass of drink and when i printed it, it turned out only half of the glass. Is there a way to fix that?

My Answer:
What you are experiencing is viewfinder parallax error. The viewfinder sits over the lens, and doesn't exactly display what the lens sees. Normally, with most subjects, you don't really see this effect causing a problem. The subject is usually far enough away from the camera that the difference in the higher position of the viewfinder from the lens isn't noticeable. However, the closer you get to the subject, the more pronounced the effect. So when you are trying to shoot a glass on a table, that is only a few feet away, you need to compensate for the viewfinder offset by slightly tilting the camera up.

Parallax in a normal scene is not a problem.

But when the subject is close to the camera, then parallax error can be a big problem.
 

In order to compensate for Parallax error, you have to adjust how you frame the photo in the viewfinder.

If you are shooting with a Holga 120 or 135, you will also have to compensate for the fact that the viewfinder sits to the left of the lens. This means that to compensate, you will have to slightly tilt the camera to the left if you are shooting a subject that is very close to the camera.

This is one of the most requested videos I have on my to do list. I'm still working on the video, but here is the Words and Pictures version of it.

The metal body folding Polaroid Land cameras use an odd battery that has snaps on either end.

If you are shopping for a Polaroid Pack camera, I would recommend looking for a 3 volt camera, as it is easier to convert.

The chart below identifies which Polaroid Pack camera models use what type of battery:

3 volt cameras, #532 battery

103, 104, 125, 135, 210, 215, 315, 320, 330, 420, 430, 440, M60, and Countdown 70

The following cameras use two 3 volt, #532 batteries, one of which is used for the built-in electronic development timer. 

If converting one of these cameras, you need only replace the camera shutter battery.

335, 350, 360, 450, M80, and Countdown 90

4.5 volt cameras, #531 battery:

100, 101, 102, 220, 225, 230, 240, 250, and 340

3-Volt Mods

3 Volt Mod - Version 1:

This is the quick and dirty mod for 3v cameras can be done using a 3v lithium battery.

Tools and Parts needed:

• Utility knife
• Electrician's Tape
• CR 123 3v battery (or equivalent)

Step 1:

The unwind the wires that are looped around the plastic end of the snaps.

Step 2:

Cut the wires close to the snap.

Step 3:

Strip about 1/4" (3-4mm) of insulation from the ends of the wires.

Step 4:

Tape the white wire to the positive end of the battery.

Step 5:

Tape the black wire to the negative end of the battery.

Step 6:

Insert the taped battery in the battery clip.

 

Check the shutter to make sure you have a positive connection to the battery.

3 Volt Mod - Version 2:

This is the more elegant version of the 3 volt mod. It uses a 2 AAA cell battery holder. I got mine from Radioshack, but any equivalent will do. The uncovered version is better, as the enclosed battery pack is slightly too large for the battery compartment.

Tools and Parts needed:

• Utility knife
• Electrician's Tape
• 2-cell AAA battery holder (Radioshack part #270-398B or equivalent)
• phillips screwdriver (if you need to remove a screw-mounted battery holder)
• needle nose pliers (if you need to remove a built in battery holder)

Follow Steps 1-3 above.

Step 4b:

Take the black wire of the battery pack, and match it up with the black wire of the camera.

Step 5b:

Twist the wires together. Wrap the two wires together with a  1.5" length of electrical tape.

Repeat these steps with the red and white wires.

Optional: If you are handy with a soldering iron, solder the wires together for the best connection.

Step 6b:

Step 7b:

You need to make room for the battery holder. If the battery clip screwed in, remove it with a small phillips screwdriver. If the battery clip is molded into the same plastic as the camera, you will have to remove it by nibbling at it with a pair of small needle nose pliers. 

Note: A photograph will be added later, after I shoot the clip removal for the how-to video.

 

4.5 Volt Mod - Version 1:

This is the same as the 3 volt mod, version 2, except at the end. The 3 cell battery holder won't fit inside the battery compartment, se we need to make a notch in the battery compartment for the wires to come out. 

Tools and Parts needed:

• Utility knife
• Electrician's Tape
• 3-cell AAA battery holder (Radioshack part #270-42 or equivalent)
• glue or velcro to attach the battery holder to the camera

Follow Steps 1-3 from the 3 volt, Version 1

Follow Steps 4b-6b from the 3 volt, Version 2, except you are connecting a 3 cell, 4.5 volt battery holder instead of the 2 cell holder.

Step 7c:

With the utility knife, start to scrape a notch to the left of the bump in the battery compartment door edge. You don't want to put the notch in the bump, as the bump is what holds the battery compartment door closed.

The battery compartment is metal, but it's aluminum, so it can be cut by using the cutting edge of the utility knife to scrape a notch into the metal. Scrape the metal to remove it, by applying pressure, and dragging the blade perpindicular to the compartment edge (in the direction of the arrow). Once you get a slight divot going, it gets easier to cut down into the metal. Little shavings will come off as you cut into the metal.

Step 8c:

The finished notch.

Step 9c:

The battery pack can be attached to the camera with glue or industrial velcro applied to the battery pack and to the camera body.

 

To come: 4.5 volt mod, Version 2.

There is a more elegant solution for the 4.5 volt mod, but it involves modifying a 4-cell holder so that it holds 3 batteries. This is a lot of work, but the advantage is that the battery holder will fit inside the battery compartment.

I will post this 4-cell battery holder to 3-cell battery holder later, as I need to improve my light set-up, so that you can see what is being done to modify the battery holder. 

 

This is a Kodak 35mm Retinette, Model 30 that I picked up from a thrift store.  The Retinettes were popular, and Kodak made many variations of this camera. It was built as a less expensive alternative to the Kodak Retina cameras. According to Wikipedia, the Model 30 was first manufactured in 1958.

The Kodak Retinette, Model 30 specs are:

45mm , f/3.5 Schneider-Kreuznach Reomar Lens

Compur Rapid Shutter 

shutter range - 1/500s - 1s, B setting

aperture range - f/3.5 - f22

accessory shoe, M-X flash sync

self-timer

tripod mount

leather case

The camera is in very good condition, with all shutter speeds working, and the aperture appears to close cleanly. It is a basic camera, with no metering and zone focussing. The roll of film that appears with the camera was loaded in the camera when I found it. It is a roll of Kodachrome II. I sometimes like to get the old rolls processed, but unfortunately, there are no more labs that do Kodachrome processing. I am looking forward to running a roll of film through this camera.

Cost:$15